alex wrote a program to control the door motor and it worked.

https://github.com/jerkey/doormotor/tree/alex-firmware/firmware

last night we got the motor controller working to turn the motor the way we
want to, in a very powerful and controlled manner.

we are ready to use it to open the door if people step up and install the motor
over the door.

-jake

On Fri, 20 Jan 2017, David Keenan wrote:

Oh I see.. but it'd have to be longer than 1' -

Square metal tubing does sound more robust, if more of a pain to attach the
wire & hinge too




On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 11:52 PM Patrik D'haeseleer <patrikd@gmail.com>
wrote:

On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 10:20 PM, David Keenan <dkeenan44@gmail.com>
wrote:


Robb - you mean 1/4" thick? Just to support the 2x2 pushing stick, or the
whole motor somehow? That's pretty thick


Or perhaps he meant 1-1/4" angle iron, instead of a 2x2" wooden push
stick?

If so, I think square tubing would be even better: compact, affordable,
and more resistant to buckling or twisting than an angle iron.

Patrik


On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 10:17 PM, robb <sf99er@gmail.com> wrote:

we're gonna need something like 1'4" thick angle iron about 12" long

On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 9:58 PM, David Keenan <dkeenan44@gmail.com> wrote:

Oops I just saw you said there were threaded holes in the chassis. That's
great. This might be easier than I thought -

Best,
David

On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 9:51 PM David Keenan <dkeenan44@gmail.com> wrote:

Yaa. This all sounds super rad. I imagine we can build the shelf /mounting
plate without much ado as long as we get the depth right. If we use
stainless threaded rod actually we could just make an adjustable height
ceiling-suspended shelf using nuts, with perhaps adjustable l-brackets at
the transom header to provide some lateral / shear support.. We also might
want to add some sort of support or L-bracket for the 2x2 to slide along
and be supported at the non-door end. It won't be a work of art, but on
paper at least it should work.

I'll check in with niki and see if I can come on a Tuesday. I'll go take
measurements of the motor and see about creating this. Are there any
mounting holes by any chance on the motor chassis (I imagine not?)

Best,
David


On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 7:04 PM Jake <jake@spaz.org> wrote:

On Thu, 19 Jan 2017, David Keenan wrote:

- door arm (2x2 stick) and mechanism cannot extend lower than 2" below

top

of door. That's possible right?

yes my design includes not protruding more than 2" below the top of the
door.

- opening force of the motor cannot be too strong. I assume the rpm can

be

adjusted?

RPM is the speed, what you mean is the force, and yes it can be adjusted in

software!  we can dial it to exactly 5 pounds or whatever you want.

Also, we can entirely remove the automatic closing device that we have
there

now, and use the motor for that purpose as well, although we might decide
to

just keep both there.

- per code if the door is blocked or hits someone/something, it needs to

yield. What happens when the motor is stopped by something else, when the

motor is engaged? Would that damage the motor?

the motor will not be damaged, if someone blocks the door it will just
press

right through their soft flesh and bones without stopping.  This is what
you

want right?



i guess if you prefer, we can tell it that if the force is more than the
set

number of pounds, it just yields and waits, or perhaps times out and gives
up

after a certain number of seconds.  It's not a problem.

- Not related to the mechanics, but even if the motor is not heavy, the

shelf upon which the motor sits will have to look and be very sturdy,

like

strong enough for someone to hang off of. Given the large transom, it

will

probably have to be a wide shelf, or perhaps stainless rods connecting to

ceiling joists or something.

you're right about this, the motor is a bit heavy, maybe 25 pounds?  it's
in a

milk crate next to the robot right now, and it will be used with the black

wheel (no tire) that is in the same milk crate.



I think that vertical supports into the ceiling joists would be
appropriate,

but that's not my department.  Anyway there are a few bolts I found that
fit

the threads cast into the motor, and they're duct-taped to its brake
handle.

Again for the mechanism, I would refer to guidelines here:

http://www.constructionspecifier.com/understanding-new-accessibility-requirements-for-doors/



that's a lot of stuff to read.  I think we'll be fine.  I even have a
battery

we can use for the backup power.

Perhaps we can set up a time for me/others to come look at the equipment

and

figure out how to safely and securely mount it.

i'm busy this weekend but i'm at omni every tuesday at 7pm for Hardware
Hacking

Tuesdays and I can come in on mondays or thursdays, hit me up.



-jake










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