That temperature hang bug is a g-code command that waits for the temp to stabilize, I believe it can be disabled.On Mar 15, 2018 1:19 PM, "Cere Misc" <cere.misc@gmail.com> wrote:Wonder if you can get silver solder to stick to the glass then scrape off the excess?On Wed, Mar 14, 2018 at 4:12 PM, Jake <jake@spaz.org> wrote:it doesn't have to be super high-temp since the bed only heats to a maximum of
like 85 degrees C which is not even boiling water temperature. but it probably
has to be able to stick to dirty broken glass craters, or it will pop out.
also it needs to be something we can shape to be flat using a flat edge like a
razorblade.
On Wed, 14 Mar 2018, robb wrote:
*First they ignore you, then they laugh at you, then they fight you, thenwould high temp epoxy work for the craters?
On Wed, Mar 14, 2018 at 3:51 PM, Jake <jake@spaz.org> wrote:
I 3d printed stuff last night and it worked great. I scraped off the
stuff on
the print bed and exposed the actual glass print bed! it's still good
except
there are a couple of serious craters. Not sure what to do about the
craters,
perhaps fill them in with caulk? Silicone caulk sticks to glass.
If anyone wants to 3D print something please let me know and i'll show you
what
i've learned about doing it.
On Tue, 27 Feb 2018, hol@gaskill.com wrote:
to each one's own. I loved showing up with a card the size of a
fingernail and rocking and rolling from there. no drivers, nothing to______________________________
worry about on the PC side. If someone is using the computer, no need to
disturb them or fear they will close the window. anyone who is comfortable
using a car stereo can handle the knob and button approach! cheers
On 2018-02-26 11:47, Jake wrote:
i remember that there was a bug where you couldn't put the temperature
command
into the gcode on the SDcard, or the machine would heat up but then just
hang
(which is terrible and clogs the nozzle and fills the space with the
smell of
burning plastic)
i don't know if that bug exists in the firmware i downloaded and put in
the
machine.
also i hate the little LCD and knob interface, and i think computers
should
have a keyboard and ssh server...
i look forward to installing octoprint on the computer there, so that
people
can use their own laptop to drive the printer through their browser, and
even
watch it through a webcam.
also without a computer how are you supposed to tweak and jog the
machine?
through the LCD and knob thing? no thanks.
I can't wait to see people printing with it!
-jake
On Mon, 26 Feb 2018, hol@gaskill.com wrote:
Jake I have printed 100% of the time from that machine from SD card with
excellent results after minor setting tweaks. Sorry if you have not had
good luck. Does the new firmware disable this feature or make it more
difficult?
Either way thank you for putting in the time to fix it and I'll happily
use either method going forward.
On 2018-02-23 15:52, Jake wrote:
I uploaded the correct firmware to the machine (it was running
firmware for a
machine with different physical attributes) and now it seems to print
fine.
I didn't have the time to properly prepare the bed though, so there
was some
non-adhesion, but the giant spool of filament is hooked up and it's
ready to
go.
cura-lulzbot slicer is installed on the computer there, and "sudoroom
white
ABS" filament is defined and should work. Pronterface (red icon) is
the
program to use to drive the printer and run the gcode generated by
cura.
don't do the SD card thing, it won't work and is terrible.
https://sudoroom.org/wiki/TAZ
-jake
On Thu, 1 Feb 2018, Paul Orozco wrote:
So I'm coming across something else that's weird. It's superextruding
onsudo-discuss mailing list
the left side of a calibration cube... Thought I'd share with you. Any
ideas?
On Jan 29, 2018 00:51, "Jake" <jake@spaz.org> wrote:
that's great that you got it working! which filament were you using?
we______________________________
have a
large spool of white ABS but the spool came apart. if we fix the
spool and
dust it off, it's still good.
the hard part of using big spools of filament is making sure that the
printer
has a straight path to pull from the spool, and the spool can rotate
freely.
i can help with this on Tuesday. we already have so much filament,
i don't
want to buy more yet.
-Jake
On Mon, 29 Jan 2018, Paul Orozco wrote:
Jake,
I actually just got it working. I figured I’d just download the
slicer
and slice it on my computer and load it up to the SD card. I
started a
print but the filament snapped. I guessed that’d happen like it did
with my
other old filaments. It’s just something that happens. Want to go
in on
some filament or IDRK? How should we go about that? I mainly have
1.75 at
my home.
Paul Orozco
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: Paul Orozco
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2018 10:27 PM
To: Jake
Cc: sudo-discuss@lists.sudoroom.org
Subject: RE: [sudo-discuss] Sudo Room 3D Printer Questions
Jake,
Hello, thanks for the replay. I do have experience with stuff like
that.
I actually have experience with stuff like that. I have my own
shitty
printer that’s a Tevo Tarantula; that one runs on Marlin (I think I
recently uploaded 1.1.4). I’m still upgrading it though
mechanically. I
usually use Cura 3.1.0 for my slicer and have the usual Tarantula
slicer
for that. I also previously had an Anet A8 but that one was
breaking down
so often I ended up getting the Tarantula and sold my old one to a
friend.
I’ve heard different things about it including that it’s still
broken or
it’s fixed. Use the computer with a direct link instead of using
the SD
card. I was just looking for some kind of clarification. What kind
of
software you guys use to slice and all that good stuff.
Thanks again,
Paul Orozco
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: Jake
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2018 10:02 PM
To: Paul Orozco
Cc: sudo-discuss@lists.sudoroom.org
Subject: Re: [sudo-discuss] Sudo Room 3D Printer Questions
Hi Paul,
i'm happy to report that the nozzle heater resistor was recently
replaced, so
as far as i know there is nothing wrong with the printer except
that it
hasn't
been used in a long time, so there's probably a lot of dust on the
filament and
the print bed, and maybe the nozzle is clogged.
do you have experience using a 3D printer like ours, which is a TAZ
3
running
Marlin firmware? I'm guessing it will take a little bit of
fiddling to
get the
first prints to come out well.
I'll be hosting Hardware Hacking Tuesday this week at 7PM and you're
welcome to
come then and try to use the 3D printer. I can help a little bit
while
you're
working on it, and there may be others who can help as well.
-jake
On Sat, 27 Jan 2018, Paul Orozco wrote:
Hello everyone,
I'm a little new and I'm just wondering what's the status of the 3D
Printer
over here. I've heard it's broken right now, so I'm wondering what
it'll
take to fix it and be able to use it.
Paul Orozco
Cell: (916)337-7101
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- Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi
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