i think they're on to something w/the double linear fresnel lenses

looks like it can hit 2 dimensions uniformly

On Fri, Jan 19, 2018 at 1:44 PM, <hol@gaskill.com> wrote:

Just looked at the instructions - are we overthinking how to illuminate a piece of paper?  Could easily use an aluminum channel with white LED strip to do same task.  Happy to bring these materials next tues.

On 2018-01-18 22:37, jacques revera wrote:

probably less than a square foot or half of that. depends on how we remake the piece holding the light to raise it higher

On Thu, Jan 18, 2018 at 10:23 PM, Jake <jake@spaz.org> wrote:

i have plenty of FR4 that does have copper on it, we could still use it for
this.  how much do we need?

On Thu, 18 Jan 2018, Marc Juul wrote:

Nice! I'm not sure we have any non-circuitboard FR4. If it's not too big we
could just order it from e.g. seeedfusion as a circuitboard design with no
exposed copper pads.

On Thu, Jan 18, 2018 at 1:54 PM, jacques revera <jacquesrevera@gmail.com>
wrote:

I just purchased two refurbished 20 megapixel Canon PowerShot ELPH 160 and
the archivist lighting assembly which includes LED bulbs, sockets, lenses,
wiring and power adapter.

Jonathon will send us the design files for the sockets mounting plate soon
as I tell him what format we need to cut it at the SUDO room: DXF or SVG or
something else?

~

http://diybookscanner.org/archivist/index6ea9.html?page_id=267
This is the page describing the plate. It would be convenient if the SUDO
room has some FR4 but as long as the material is opaque, heat proof and can
be painted black, should be no problem.

This plate will sit at the top center of the scanner. The plate also
serves to block light from entering from the top direction. Since, we need
to attach something to raise the lights higher than the original
hackerspace design, we should not cut this out yet. It does not need to be
the same shape as the archivist plate as long as the socket mounting holes
are the same.

Jonathon wrote last week:
."..you can move the lights further away from the platen. Because of
various design constraints, Daniel put the lights closer to the platen than
is ideal on that model. For later models (like Daniel's Archivist design),
the lights were been moved further away to reduce glare and hot spots. You
want to reproduce this in some way. So just build a simple frame you can
set on top of the scanner to lift the lights. There is a mathematical way
to find the minimum distance, but it might be easiest just to do it
empirically, pulling the lights away and taking sample photos until you see
that there is no reflected light source."

You can see how this the lights are put together on the archivist about
halfway down this page
http://diybookscanner.org/archivist/index9bef.html?page_id=54

Jacques

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