JacquesThis plate will sit at the top center of the scanner. The plate also serves to block light from entering from the top direction. Since, we need to attach something to raise the lights higher than the original hackerspace design, we should not cut this out yet. It does not need to be the same shape as the archivist plate as long as the socket mounting holes are the same.I just purchased two refurbished 20 megapixel Canon PowerShot ELPH 160 andthe archivist lighting assembly which includes LED bulbs, sockets, lenses, wiring and power adapter.
Jonathon will send us the design files for the sockets mounting plate soon as I tell him what format we need to cut it at the SUDO room: DXF or SVG or something else?~This is the page describing the plate. It would be convenient if the SUDO room has some FR4 but as long as the material is opaque, heat proof and can be painted black, should be no problem.Jonathon wrote last week:."..you can move the lights further away from the platen. Because of various design constraints, Daniel put the lights closer to the platen than is ideal on that model. For later models (like Daniel's Archivist design), the lights were been moved further away to reduce glare and hot spots. You want to reproduce this in some way. So just build a simple frame you can set on top of the scanner to lift the lights. There is a mathematical way to find the minimum distance, but it might be easiest just to do it empirically, pulling the lights away and taking sample photos until you see that there is no reflected light source."You can see how this the lights are put together on the archivist about halfway down this page
http://diybookscanner.org/archivist/index9bef.html?page_ id=54
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