I'm down here at sudoroom trying to get the printer to connect to Pronterface on my Mac but I can't get it working. The printer PC is currently occupied by someone doing email. Has anyone done it on a Mac yet? Maybe Mac OS 10.7 is incompatible or something.

On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 12:08 PM, Hol Gaskill <hol@gaskill.com> wrote:

hey dan,

i printed the threads about half a millimeter small then chased them with a 1/8" pipe tap to clean them up and they fit up very tight!  the model actually has 45 degree thread profile instead of 60 degrees like american pipe and screw threads, just for printability.  since this is a strainer, it's ok to have little gaps, but if it were anything where i'd be worried about leaks, would definitely opt for some pipe dope on the threads.  haven't fielded it yet but it did screw onto a 1/8NPT hose barb quite nicely!  If anyone is interested in learning how to model screw or pipe threads, PM me.

you need the dimensions - http://machiningproducts.com/html/NPT-Thread-Dimensions.html  then in solidworks, you draw a circle with same diameter as the pipe OD (which is bigger than the nominal size since for plumbing it's what's on the inside that counts) at the face you'll be penetrating with threads, and draw a helix from there (EX1) .  for pipe threads, the helix should be tapered 1 degree 47 minutes, but i just use 1.75 degree.  then perpendicular to the plane of that circle, you draw the tooth profile (EX2) and use the Swept Cut tool to scoop out the tooth profile along the path of the helix you just created.

i have an extra 4-40 tap/drill that I'll bring into the sudo shop, which is the finest I have on hand.


i found kisslicer put some weird geometry into previously empty space of the build but overall it worked ok.

as to the toolchain for using the 3d printer, the steps are basically:
1- create a cad model with geometry that is printable
2- export to .stl format, which is basically a list of triangular faces that define the surface
3- use a slicing utility to create the stacks of (2D cross-section) toolpaths that the extruder will follow and save as g-code
4- import g-code to printer host software, connect to printer, check that the Z axis won't collide with the table, and print!

cheers,
hol

Aug 8, 2013 11:42:38 AM, dan@danfinlay.com wrote:
That looks nice, Hol!  How is the threading holding up?  I've defaulted to just make holes too small then tap it with self-tapping plastic screws, but I needed much finer teeth.  If it gives you trouble you could try just tapping the plastic with the final piece, if it seems too brittle, just heat up the threaded piece first!  200C should do ;)

>---Marina:  Documentation is probably worthy of a project, since it's not really a community resource unless the community can figure out how to use it.  What I said to Hol could be enough for someone willing to do some research on their own, or familiar with the general concept.

>Here's a very brief expansion that could be pasted on the wiki to get the self-driven learners started (I really don't know if I have wiki access, it's been a while, just humor me here):
>Steps to using the 3D printer:
>1.  Convert your 3D model (.stl, ...) to machine-instructions, or '.gcode' using KisSlicer.  Our KisSlicer is currently calibrated for our Type A Machines printer using 1.75mm PLA, its print bed size, and its nozzle diameter.  Hang on to that .gcode file!
>2.  To control the printer itself, and send the gcode instructions to the printer, we use Pronterface.  Once the printer is powered on and connected, Pronterface will give you the ability to heat up the nozzle, move any of the motors (don't push plastic through a cold nozzle or raise the bed past where it's touching the nozzle!), and even send a series of instructions to the printer straight off a .gcode file.  And that's all that's involved software-wise!
>Hardware Troubleshooting:
>The nozzle can jam!  That plastic is only being pushed through the hot tube of metal by a pretty small motor, so if there's a little resistance in the hot-end, it's easy for the extruder's motor to slip, gradually shredding up the plastic in that spot and certainly not printing.
>Before you start printing, it's a good idea to heat up the hot end (PLA melts at 185C, some people like to print a little hotter for smoother flow) and then extrude some plastic, to make sure it's coming out.  We've had some jams with this hot-end before, and if you have trouble, you might want to clear it:
>To clear out the hot-end:  Just heat up the hot end, reverse the extruder until you can pull out the plastic filament thread, and then push something like a pin through, as long as it is narrower than the hot end tip.  Last I checked there was a very thin alan wrench on the desk, and it worked great once I angled it so it could go in there.
>Other problems can vary dramatically.  A keen eye and a practical mind can figure out lots of them!  They can include:

>-Small plastic bits interfering with the pulleys and the timing belts, making for weird lumps in the shape.-Stepper motors slip and will just click without moving if they are experiencing too much resistance for the current they're being supplied, something might be in the way!

>And more!  Please contribute to this list as you encounter problems with our printer and solve them.
>
>Good luck!-Dan
>
>
>
>

>-Dan 


>On Aug 7, 2013, at 9:35 PM, Marina Kukso marina.kukso@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>thank you guys!
>
>is the 3d printer available for anyone to use now? do we need new documentation for those who'd like to use it?
>
>- marina
>

>
>On Wed, Aug 7, 2013 at 7:15 PM, Hol Gaskill hol@gaskill.com> wrote:
>
>
OK didn't turn out perfect but I have some results to use in refining the model for printability.
>

>
Thanks again, dan!
>

>

>
Aug 7, 2013 04:03:24 PM, somniac@me.com wrote:
>
I've done it!  Here's the rundown:
>
>
>
>Previously your host software was probably "Repetier-Host", which was a nice little suite with the slicer and host software in one package.  Now things are a little different:
>
>
>
>First you'll use KISSlicer to slice an .stl model into your .gcode file, then you'll open PronterFace, where you can load that .gcode file and tell the printer to print it.  It's actually fairly similar, all the same general functions, just in two pieces of software.
>

>
>
>Good luck!
>
>
>
>-Dan
>
>
>
>
>
>On Aug 7, 2013, at 11:24 AM, Hol Gaskill hol@gaskill.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>> Hi Folks,
>
>>
>
>> Who has used the 3D printer since the host computer was re-imaged or knows where to find documentation on how to use it posted somewhere?  I used the old one frequently but it was in a windows environment, tried to show someone how to use it the other day and was dumbfounded.  Trying to print out some intake strainers to keep pumps from sucking in duckweed.
>

>>
>
>> Cheers,
>
>> Hol
>
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