wrought brought in the replacement resistor sent by LulzBot, which came
with a couple of crimp thingies to make the connection. I used them
(although i was not impressed with their crimpiness and i worry they might
fail) and i put heatshrink over them (and mylar tape on one) to insulate
them.
i installed the new resistor with aluminum foil as a spacer, which made it
fit very snugly. according to lulzbot nothing is needed as a spacer,
which I think is ridiculous. with no spacer, the resistor is loose in the
hole, which would explain why it burned out.
i uploaded the "new" firmware to the machine according to the instructions
from lulzbot. my arduino program told me that the upload failed, but the
LCD of the machine says it has the latest firmware, and talking to it over
serial it says that the firmware was compiled tonight, so apparently the
upload didn't fail.
it's printing an octopus now, in black, from the giant spool installed in
the wall above the desk. It's about 3mm high now and should finish
nicely. the TAZ is fixed.
-jake
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: support(a)lulzbot.com <support(a)lulzbot.com>
Date: Thu, May 8, 2014 at 6:27 AM
Subject: [sudo-info] TAZ 3 Service Bulletin 24V firmware
To: info(a)sudoroom.org
Hello TAZ user,
We have received reports of hot end failures from a small number of TAZ
users with 24v systems. This includes the TAZ 3 model and TAZ 1 or 2
versions that have been user upgraded to 24V volts. These failures are
characterized by a sudden failure of the hot end.
After a thorough investigation, we have determined that in some cases the
default 24v firmware settings can cause the hot end heater resistor to fail
over time. We have tested and verified a software-based solution. We are
recommending that all TAZ 3 users upgrade the Marlin firmware with the
update instructions found here:
ohai-kit.alephobjects.com/project/marlin-resistor-update/<https://phplist.alephobjects.com/lists/lt.php?id=f0oBHwYaUwsA>
If you have had a hot end failure and have not already been assisted,
please contact customer support at support(a)lulzbot.com or 1-970-377-1111
during business hours, M-F 9am-5pm EST.
If you have any questions or would like assistance in upgrading the
firmware, please do not hesitate to contact our support team using the
contact information below.
1-970-377-1111 x610
support(a)lulzbot.com
_______________________________________________
Info mailing list
Info(a)lists.sudoroom.org
https://lists.sudoroom.org/listinfo/info
so i spent all evening (and some of last night) to finally spool up the
gigantic pile of black filament for the TAZ 3D printer.
i finally got it hung from the wall with a dust cover over it and ready to
feed smoothly into the printer, and then i discovered that the heating
element in its extruder head is dead.
oh well.
so, we need a new resistor to go in there. I don't know what the original
spec is, but since the whole thing runs on 24VDC and assuming 24 watts of
heat, that would be a 24 ohm resistor or so.
Is someone other than me interested in contacting Lulzbot and asking
whether they want to send us a new resistor, or if they can tell us what
part number of resistor we should get as a replacement?
-jake
P.S. yes i tested the resistor and it's dead, infinite ohms, it's burned
out. When we get a replacement we can glue it in there better than they
apparently did. If the glue goes bad it dies.
I heard the TAZ 3d printer was messed up so i went in there and poked
around. I guess the vertical threaded rods for the Z axis are coupled to
the Z stepper motors by short pieces of vinyl tubing, with zip ties around
them. That's ridiculous.
Well somehow (elliot) the Z axis threaded rod on the left got messed up,
and got all tangled up in the vinyl hose with the stepper shaft - and
everything got out of wack.
I moved the vinyl tubing up a bit on the motor shaft, and put another
ziptie on there, tightening it carefully with a sneaky method involving
pliers and a screwdriver. Then i did the same thing on the right, just
for good measure.
then i put some papers under the printer on the right, until its base was
level with the earth (using the bubble level to check) and then i manually
turned the Z axis screws until the trellis or trolley or whatever was also
level.
then i set the z-axis homing adjuster (the red knob) and adjusted the four
corner adjusters of the platform until it was level. I used a piece of
paper to measure the distance from the nozzle to the platform near each
corner.
i didn't try to print anything but i'm sure it will print well.
last night I replaced the hotend on the sudoroom type-a-machine 3d
printer.
after that i spent a bit of time attempting to print and kept running into
problems, which i'll list.
it seems that some of the PLA we have that came from type A machines is
clearly labeled to be printed at 190-220 degrees! I have always used 185,
but i guess this is a new formula. When i set it to 205 it still seemed
too cold, so i ended up using 220.
You should set the temperature in the slic3r before you export your gcode.
There are other ways to do it, but if you know them you don't need me to
tell you.
the other issue is that our spools of filament are dusty! it's gross.
And all that dust goes into the extruder and jams it up. The nozzle is
only 0.35mm diameter! so clean the filament spool first (DO NOT GET PLA
WET) and keep a dust-catcher on the filament before it goes into the
machine. I put one on there last night.
something like this would be fine, if we had the right foam, but for now i
just cut some acrylic fabric and wrapped it around the filament with some
copper wire to hold it on there. It should work but check it once in a
while, or when changing spools.
someone had put tape over the old tape on the platform in a very chaotic
and haphazard way. Also there were a few melted spots on the platform
where a hot extruder had been rammed into the platform and created a
little vulcano.
I carved the raised spots off the platform with a flat-edged blade,
leveling them off, and then i re-arranged the tape properly so there is NO
OVERLAPPING OF TAPE and only one layer of tape. It is necessary to
maintain the platform any time you're trying to print if it is not already
good to go.
I didn't re-level the platform so if someone else wants to do that go
ahead. It seemed a bit higher on the left than on the right. I like to
get a perfectly cylindrical object and adjust the z-height so it just
barely rolls under the extruder tip, and then try in four corners of the
platform to compare the height.
now join the sudo-prints mailing list!
http://lists.sudoroom.org/listinfo/sudo-prints
-jake
Sudoroom has so many printers, it's hard to keep track!
2D printers, 3D printers, label printers, and even screenprinters!
there's some sort of weird flyer-duplicating machine that makes only green
ink but is really cheap to use, there's that new fancy COLOR laser
printer...
so here is a new list, sudo-prints(a)lists.sudoroom.org
if you know how to use one of the printers at sudoroom, including the CNC
machine (hey it can print in wood) please subscribe to this list!
then we can put labels on all the sudo printers that say "have questions
about using this machine? noticed something you think others should know?
do you know how to use it and want to help others? write to
sudo-prints(a)lists.sudoroom.org !!!"
your present for joining this list is that you get to hear about the
sudoroom 3d printer, latest news, a post that i will write right now.
-jake
