[sudo-access] help build a motorized front-door opener for omni commons

Jake jake at spaz.org
Wed Feb 1 17:31:36 PST 2017


alex wrote a program to control the door motor and it worked.

https://github.com/jerkey/doormotor/tree/alex-firmware/firmware

last night we got the motor controller working to turn the motor the way we
want to, in a very powerful and controlled manner.

we are ready to use it to open the door if people step up and install the motor
over the door.

-jake

On Fri, 20 Jan 2017, David Keenan wrote:

> Oh I see.. but it'd have to be longer than 1' -
>
> Square metal tubing does sound more robust, if more of a pain to attach the
> wire & hinge too
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 11:52 PM Patrik D'haeseleer <patrikd at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 10:20 PM, David Keenan <dkeenan44 at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Robb - you mean 1/4" thick? Just to support the 2x2 pushing stick, or the
>> whole motor somehow? That's pretty thick
>>
>>
>> Or perhaps he meant 1-1/4" angle iron, instead of a 2x2" wooden push
>> stick?
>>
>> If so, I think square tubing would be even better: compact, affordable,
>> and more resistant to buckling or twisting than an angle iron.
>>
>> Patrik
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 10:17 PM, robb <sf99er at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> we're gonna need something like 1'4" thick angle iron about 12" long
>>
>> On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 9:58 PM, David Keenan <dkeenan44 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Oops I just saw you said there were threaded holes in the chassis. That's
>> great. This might be easier than I thought -
>>
>> Best,
>> David
>>
>> On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 9:51 PM David Keenan <dkeenan44 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Yaa. This all sounds super rad. I imagine we can build the shelf /mounting
>> plate without much ado as long as we get the depth right. If we use
>> stainless threaded rod actually we could just make an adjustable height
>> ceiling-suspended shelf using nuts, with perhaps adjustable l-brackets at
>> the transom header to provide some lateral / shear support.. We also might
>> want to add some sort of support or L-bracket for the 2x2 to slide along
>> and be supported at the non-door end. It won't be a work of art, but on
>> paper at least it should work.
>>
>> I'll check in with niki and see if I can come on a Tuesday. I'll go take
>> measurements of the motor and see about creating this. Are there any
>> mounting holes by any chance on the motor chassis (I imagine not?)
>>
>> Best,
>> David
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 7:04 PM Jake <jake at spaz.org> wrote:
>>
>> On Thu, 19 Jan 2017, David Keenan wrote:
>>
>>> - door arm (2x2 stick) and mechanism cannot extend lower than 2" below
>> top
>>
>>> of door. That's possible right?
>>
>>
>>
>> yes my design includes not protruding more than 2" below the top of the
>> door.
>>
>>
>>
>>> - opening force of the motor cannot be too strong. I assume the rpm can
>> be
>>
>>> adjusted?
>>
>>
>>
>> RPM is the speed, what you mean is the force, and yes it can be adjusted in
>>
>> software!  we can dial it to exactly 5 pounds or whatever you want.
>>
>> Also, we can entirely remove the automatic closing device that we have
>> there
>>
>> now, and use the motor for that purpose as well, although we might decide
>> to
>>
>> just keep both there.
>>
>>
>>
>>> - per code if the door is blocked or hits someone/something, it needs to
>>
>>> yield. What happens when the motor is stopped by something else, when the
>>
>>> motor is engaged? Would that damage the motor?
>>
>>
>>
>> the motor will not be damaged, if someone blocks the door it will just
>> press
>>
>> right through their soft flesh and bones without stopping.  This is what
>> you
>>
>> want right?
>>
>>
>>
>> i guess if you prefer, we can tell it that if the force is more than the
>> set
>>
>> number of pounds, it just yields and waits, or perhaps times out and gives
>> up
>>
>> after a certain number of seconds.  It's not a problem.
>>
>>
>>
>>> - Not related to the mechanics, but even if the motor is not heavy, the
>>
>>> shelf upon which the motor sits will have to look and be very sturdy,
>> like
>>
>>> strong enough for someone to hang off of. Given the large transom, it
>> will
>>
>>> probably have to be a wide shelf, or perhaps stainless rods connecting to
>>
>>> ceiling joists or something.
>>
>>
>>
>> you're right about this, the motor is a bit heavy, maybe 25 pounds?  it's
>> in a
>>
>> milk crate next to the robot right now, and it will be used with the black
>>
>> wheel (no tire) that is in the same milk crate.
>>
>>
>>
>> I think that vertical supports into the ceiling joists would be
>> appropriate,
>>
>> but that's not my department.  Anyway there are a few bolts I found that
>> fit
>>
>> the threads cast into the motor, and they're duct-taped to its brake
>> handle.
>>
>>
>>
>>> Again for the mechanism, I would refer to guidelines here:
>>
>>>
>> http://www.constructionspecifier.com/understanding-new-accessibility-requirements-for-doors/
>>
>>
>>
>> that's a lot of stuff to read.  I think we'll be fine.  I even have a
>> battery
>>
>> we can use for the backup power.
>>
>>
>>
>>> Perhaps we can set up a time for me/others to come look at the equipment
>> and
>>
>>> figure out how to safely and securely mount it.
>>
>>
>>
>> i'm busy this weekend but i'm at omni every tuesday at 7pm for Hardware
>> Hacking
>>
>> Tuesdays and I can come in on mondays or thursdays, hit me up.
>>
>>
>>
>> -jake
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>>
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>>
>>
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>>
>>
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>


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