Difference between revisions of "Artillery Sidewinder X2"

PETG printing tips
(Update status and tips)
(PETG printing tips)
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* Small spools can hang off the clamp stuck on top the right support. 1KG and larger spools feed better from the built-in holder center-top, but you may need to adjust it to the correct width for the spool. The hex key needed to adjust the bracket should be in the "Tools" drawer next to the printer.
* Small spools can hang off the clamp stuck on top the right support. 1KG and larger spools feed better from the built-in holder center-top, but you may need to adjust it to the correct width for the spool. The hex key needed to adjust the bracket should be in the "Tools" drawer next to the printer.
* The stock [https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer PrusaSlicer] profiles for the Artillery X1 w/ Generic PLA seem to work pretty well. The Generic PETG profiles '''DO NOT''' work great with this printer; good PETG prints will require a lot of fiddling.  
* The stock [https://github.com/prusa3d/PrusaSlicer PrusaSlicer] profiles for the Artillery X1 w/ Generic PLA seem to work pretty well. The Generic PETG profiles '''DO NOT''' work great with this printer; good PETG prints will require a lot of fiddling.  
===PETG Printing===
Here are some overrides for better PETG printing:
[[File:Artillery-petg-settings.png|thumb]]
The problems these are trying to solve are:
* Poor bed adhesion -- this is solved by the higher bed and first layer nozzle temps.
* Warping of long parts -- this is mostly solved by the high bed temp and disabling the fan; things cool slower and warp less.
* Stringy ooze everywhere -- this is vastly improved by the travel ramping mode, except in specific print areas where it's ineffective. Note that lower angles seemed to cause problems with colliding/dragging the print. Increasing the default retraction length did not help. Decreasing the non-first layer nozzle temp back to default or below might help.


==Documentation==
==Documentation==
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