[sudo-discuss] 3D printing - help???

Wed Aug 14 19:47:47 PDT 2013

I'm down here at sudoroom trying to get the printer to connect to
Pronterface on my Mac but I can't get it working. The printer PC is
currently occupied by someone doing email. Has anyone done it on a Mac yet?
Maybe Mac OS 10.7 is incompatible or something.

On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 12:08 PM, Hol Gaskill <hol at gaskill.com> wrote:

> hey dan,
>
> i printed the threads about half a millimeter small then chased them with
> a 1/8" pipe tap to clean them up and they fit up very tight!  the model
> actually has 45 degree thread profile instead of 60 degrees like american
> pipe and screw threads, just for printability.  since this is a strainer,
> it's ok to have little gaps, but if it were anything where i'd be worried
> about leaks, would definitely opt for some pipe dope on the threads.
>  haven't fielded it yet but it did screw onto a 1/8NPT hose barb quite
> nicely!  If anyone is interested in learning how to model screw or pipe
> threads, PM me.
>
> you need the dimensions -
> http://machiningproducts.com/html/NPT-Thread-Dimensions.html  then in
> solidworks, you draw a circle with same diameter as the pipe OD (which is
> bigger than the nominal size since for plumbing it's what's on the inside
> that counts) at the face you'll be penetrating with threads, and draw a
> helix from there (EX1) .  for pipe threads, the helix should be tapered 1
> degree 47 minutes, but i just use 1.75 degree.  then perpendicular to the
> plane of that circle, you draw the tooth profile (EX2) and use the Swept
> Cut tool to scoop out the tooth profile along the path of the helix you
> just created.
>
> i have an extra 4-40 tap/drill that I'll bring into the sudo shop, which
> is the finest I have on hand.
>
>
> i found kisslicer put some weird geometry into previously empty space of
> the build but overall it worked ok.
>
> as to the toolchain for using the 3d printer, the steps are basically:
> 1- create a cad model with geometry that is printable
> 2- export to .stl format, which is basically a list of triangular faces
> that define the surface
> 3- use a slicing utility to create the stacks of (2D cross-section)
> toolpaths that the extruder will follow and save as g-code
> 4- import g-code to printer host software, connect to printer, check that
> the Z axis won't collide with the table, and print!
>
> cheers,
> hol
>
>
>
> Aug 8, 2013 11:42:38 AM, dan at danfinlay.com wrote:
> That looks nice, Hol!  How is the threading holding up?  I've defaulted to
> just make holes too small then tap it with self-tapping plastic screws, but
> I needed much finer teeth.  If it gives you trouble you could try just
> tapping the plastic with the final piece, if it seems too brittle, just
> heat up the threaded piece first!  200C should do ;)
> >---Marina:  Documentation is probably worthy of a project, since it's not
> really a community resource unless the community can figure out how to use
> it.  What I said to Hol could be enough for someone willing to do some
> research on their own, or familiar with the general concept.
> >Here's a very brief expansion that could be pasted on the wiki to get the
> self-driven learners started (I really don't know if I have wiki access,
> it's been a while, just humor me here):
> >Steps to using the 3D printer:
> >1.  Convert your 3D model (.stl, ...) to machine-instructions, or
> '.gcode' using KisSlicer.  Our KisSlicer is currently calibrated for our
> Type A Machines printer using 1.75mm PLA, its print bed size, and its
> nozzle diameter.  Hang on to that .gcode file!
> >2.  To control the printer itself, and send the gcode instructions to the
> printer, we use Pronterface.  Once the printer is powered on and connected,
> Pronterface will give you the ability to heat up the nozzle, move any of
> the motors (don't push plastic through a cold nozzle or raise the bed past
> where it's touching the nozzle!), and even send a series of instructions to
> the printer straight off a .gcode file.  And that's all that's involved
> software-wise!
> >Hardware Troubleshooting:
> >The nozzle can jam!  That plastic is only being pushed through the hot
> tube of metal by a pretty small motor, so if there's a little resistance in
> the hot-end, it's easy for the extruder's motor to slip, gradually
> shredding up the plastic in that spot and certainly not printing.
> >Before you start printing, it's a good idea to heat up the hot end (PLA
> melts at 185C, some people like to print a little hotter for smoother flow)
> and then extrude some plastic, to make sure it's coming out.  We've had
> some jams with this hot-end before, and if you have trouble, you might want
> to clear it:
> >To clear out the hot-end:  Just heat up the hot end, reverse the extruder
> until you can pull out the plastic filament thread, and then push something
> like a pin through, as long as it is narrower than the hot end tip.  Last I
> checked there was a very thin alan wrench on the desk, and it worked great
> once I angled it so it could go in there.
> >Other problems can vary dramatically.  A keen eye and a practical mind
> can figure out lots of them!  They can include:
> >-Small plastic bits interfering with the pulleys and the timing belts,
> making for weird lumps in the shape.-Stepper motors slip and will just
> click without moving if they are experiencing too much resistance for the
> current they're being supplied, something might be in the way!
> >And more!  Please contribute to this list as you encounter problems with
> our printer and solve them.
> >
> >Good luck!-Dan
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> >-Dan
>
>
> >On Aug 7, 2013, at 9:35 PM, Marina Kukso marina.kukso at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >thank you guys!
> >
> >is the 3d printer available for anyone to use now? do we need new
> documentation for those who'd like to use it?
> >
> >- marina
> >
>
> >
> >On Wed, Aug 7, 2013 at 7:15 PM, Hol Gaskill hol at gaskill.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> OK didn't turn out perfect but I have some results to use in refining the
> model for printability.
> >
>
> >
> Thanks again, dan!
> >
>
> >
>
> >
> Aug 7, 2013 04:03:24 PM, somniac at me.com wrote:
> >
> I've done it!  Here's the rundown:
> >
> >
> >
> >Previously your host software was probably "Repetier-Host", which was a
> nice little suite with the slicer and host software in one package.  Now
> things are a little different:
> >
> >
> >
> >First you'll use KISSlicer to slice an .stl model into your .gcode file,
> then you'll open PronterFace, where you can load that .gcode file and tell
> the printer to print it.  It's actually fairly similar, all the same
> general functions, just in two pieces of software.
> >
>
> >
> >
> >Good luck!
> >
> >
> >
> >-Dan
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >On Aug 7, 2013, at 11:24 AM, Hol Gaskill hol at gaskill.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >> Hi Folks,
> >
> >>
> >
> >> Who has used the 3D printer since the host computer was re-imaged or
> knows where to find documentation on how to use it posted somewhere?  I
> used the old one frequently but it was in a windows environment, tried to
> show someone how to use it the other day and was dumbfounded.  Trying to
> print out some intake strainers to keep pumps from sucking in duckweed.
> >
>
> >>
> >
> >> Cheers,
> >
> >> Hol
> >
> >> _______________________________________________
> >
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> >
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> >
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> >
> >
> >
> >
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