[sudo-discuss] 3D printing - help???

Max Ogden max at maxogden.com
Wed Aug 14 21:11:12 PDT 2013


I got onto the Linux desktop next to the 3D printer and Pronterface
connected correctly. I'll try to write up some instructions now.


On Wed, Aug 14, 2013 at 7:47 PM, Max Ogden <max at maxogden.com> wrote:

> I'm down here at sudoroom trying to get the printer to connect to
> Pronterface on my Mac but I can't get it working. The printer PC is
> currently occupied by someone doing email. Has anyone done it on a Mac yet?
> Maybe Mac OS 10.7 is incompatible or something.
>
>
> On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 12:08 PM, Hol Gaskill <hol at gaskill.com> wrote:
>
>> hey dan,
>>
>> i printed the threads about half a millimeter small then chased them with
>> a 1/8" pipe tap to clean them up and they fit up very tight!  the model
>> actually has 45 degree thread profile instead of 60 degrees like american
>> pipe and screw threads, just for printability.  since this is a strainer,
>> it's ok to have little gaps, but if it were anything where i'd be worried
>> about leaks, would definitely opt for some pipe dope on the threads.
>>  haven't fielded it yet but it did screw onto a 1/8NPT hose barb quite
>> nicely!  If anyone is interested in learning how to model screw or pipe
>> threads, PM me.
>>
>> you need the dimensions -
>> http://machiningproducts.com/html/NPT-Thread-Dimensions.html  then in
>> solidworks, you draw a circle with same diameter as the pipe OD (which is
>> bigger than the nominal size since for plumbing it's what's on the inside
>> that counts) at the face you'll be penetrating with threads, and draw a
>> helix from there (EX1) .  for pipe threads, the helix should be tapered 1
>> degree 47 minutes, but i just use 1.75 degree.  then perpendicular to the
>> plane of that circle, you draw the tooth profile (EX2) and use the Swept
>> Cut tool to scoop out the tooth profile along the path of the helix you
>> just created.
>>
>> i have an extra 4-40 tap/drill that I'll bring into the sudo shop, which
>> is the finest I have on hand.
>>
>>
>> i found kisslicer put some weird geometry into previously empty space of
>> the build but overall it worked ok.
>>
>> as to the toolchain for using the 3d printer, the steps are basically:
>> 1- create a cad model with geometry that is printable
>> 2- export to .stl format, which is basically a list of triangular faces
>> that define the surface
>> 3- use a slicing utility to create the stacks of (2D cross-section)
>> toolpaths that the extruder will follow and save as g-code
>> 4- import g-code to printer host software, connect to printer, check that
>> the Z axis won't collide with the table, and print!
>>
>> cheers,
>> hol
>>
>>
>>
>> Aug 8, 2013 11:42:38 AM, dan at danfinlay.com wrote:
>> That looks nice, Hol!  How is the threading holding up?  I've defaulted
>> to just make holes too small then tap it with self-tapping plastic screws,
>> but I needed much finer teeth.  If it gives you trouble you could try just
>> tapping the plastic with the final piece, if it seems too brittle, just
>> heat up the threaded piece first!  200C should do ;)
>> >---Marina:  Documentation is probably worthy of a project, since it's
>> not really a community resource unless the community can figure out how to
>> use it.  What I said to Hol could be enough for someone willing to do some
>> research on their own, or familiar with the general concept.
>> >Here's a very brief expansion that could be pasted on the wiki to get
>> the self-driven learners started (I really don't know if I have wiki
>> access, it's been a while, just humor me here):
>> >Steps to using the 3D printer:
>> >1.  Convert your 3D model (.stl, ...) to machine-instructions, or
>> '.gcode' using KisSlicer.  Our KisSlicer is currently calibrated for our
>> Type A Machines printer using 1.75mm PLA, its print bed size, and its
>> nozzle diameter.  Hang on to that .gcode file!
>> >2.  To control the printer itself, and send the gcode instructions to
>> the printer, we use Pronterface.  Once the printer is powered on and
>> connected, Pronterface will give you the ability to heat up the nozzle,
>> move any of the motors (don't push plastic through a cold nozzle or raise
>> the bed past where it's touching the nozzle!), and even send a series of
>> instructions to the printer straight off a .gcode file.  And that's all
>> that's involved software-wise!
>> >Hardware Troubleshooting:
>> >The nozzle can jam!  That plastic is only being pushed through the hot
>> tube of metal by a pretty small motor, so if there's a little resistance in
>> the hot-end, it's easy for the extruder's motor to slip, gradually
>> shredding up the plastic in that spot and certainly not printing.
>> >Before you start printing, it's a good idea to heat up the hot end (PLA
>> melts at 185C, some people like to print a little hotter for smoother flow)
>> and then extrude some plastic, to make sure it's coming out.  We've had
>> some jams with this hot-end before, and if you have trouble, you might want
>> to clear it:
>> >To clear out the hot-end:  Just heat up the hot end, reverse the
>> extruder until you can pull out the plastic filament thread, and then push
>> something like a pin through, as long as it is narrower than the hot end
>> tip.  Last I checked there was a very thin alan wrench on the desk, and it
>> worked great once I angled it so it could go in there.
>> >Other problems can vary dramatically.  A keen eye and a practical mind
>> can figure out lots of them!  They can include:
>> >-Small plastic bits interfering with the pulleys and the timing belts,
>> making for weird lumps in the shape.-Stepper motors slip and will just
>> click without moving if they are experiencing too much resistance for the
>> current they're being supplied, something might be in the way!
>> >And more!  Please contribute to this list as you encounter problems with
>> our printer and solve them.
>> >
>> >Good luck!-Dan
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> >-Dan
>>
>>
>> >On Aug 7, 2013, at 9:35 PM, Marina Kukso marina.kukso at gmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >thank you guys!
>> >
>> >is the 3d printer available for anyone to use now? do we need new
>> documentation for those who'd like to use it?
>> >
>> >- marina
>> >
>>
>> >
>> >On Wed, Aug 7, 2013 at 7:15 PM, Hol Gaskill hol at gaskill.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> OK didn't turn out perfect but I have some results to use in refining the
>> model for printability.
>> >
>>
>> >
>> Thanks again, dan!
>> >
>>
>> >
>>
>> >
>> Aug 7, 2013 04:03:24 PM, somniac at me.com wrote:
>> >
>> I've done it!  Here's the rundown:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >Previously your host software was probably "Repetier-Host", which was a
>> nice little suite with the slicer and host software in one package.  Now
>> things are a little different:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >First you'll use KISSlicer to slice an .stl model into your .gcode file,
>> then you'll open PronterFace, where you can load that .gcode file and tell
>> the printer to print it.  It's actually fairly similar, all the same
>> general functions, just in two pieces of software.
>> >
>>
>> >
>> >
>> >Good luck!
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >-Dan
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >On Aug 7, 2013, at 11:24 AM, Hol Gaskill hol at gaskill.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >> Hi Folks,
>> >
>> >>
>> >
>> >> Who has used the 3D printer since the host computer was re-imaged or
>> knows where to find documentation on how to use it posted somewhere?  I
>> used the old one frequently but it was in a windows environment, tried to
>> show someone how to use it the other day and was dumbfounded.  Trying to
>> print out some intake strainers to keep pumps from sucking in duckweed.
>> >
>>
>> >>
>> >
>> >> Cheers,
>> >
>> >> Hol
>> >
>> >> _______________________________________________
>> >
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>> >
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>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
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