[sudo-discuss] TAZ 3D printer needs a heating resistor

[Isaiah Abbatiello]

Aziz here 
I fit the resistor in the hole and glued it last night. 
What are the next steps? 

> On Jan 17, 2018, at 8:02 PM, Jake <jake at spaz.org> wrote:
> 
> thank you for working on that.  if it doesn't fit we can spin a drill in there
> a little bit until it fits, and then i'll glue it.  There are much better
> nozzle designs out there by now so if it doesn't work out we can always replace
> the whole block or nozzle later, i even have some of those parts laying around.
> 
> i'm going to sudo now and i'll take a look at it.  thanks again!
> -jake
> 
>> On Wed, 17 Jan 2018, Patrik D'haeseleer wrote:
>> 
>> OK - I shaved down the other side of the resistor, but the end cap of the
>> resistor is starting to show through and it doesn't quite fit in the barrel
>> yet. I'll leave it up to Jake to take off the final layers if he dares -
>> I'm worried we might be getting some shorts against the heater barrel
>> though...
>> 
>> The alternative approach would be to buy a spare heater block (still
>> available from Lulzbot for $15), and ream out the heater opening until the
>> resistor fits. Not sure that's any easier to get a good fit though. Let me
>> know if you like that idea, and I'll order the heater block.
>> 
>> Patrik
>> 
>> 
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>> On Wed, Jan 17, 2018 at 6:25 PM, Patrik D'haeseleer <patrikd at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> Sorry for trying to be helpful, but I don't think you could expect me to
>>> magically know those details. It just seemed better to use the Lulzbot
>>> resistor that you listed in your first email.
>>> 
>>> Patrik
>>> 
>>> PS: the resistor recommended by Lulzbot is available on Digi-Key for $1.50
>>> <https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/vishay-sfernice/RWM06224R70JA15E1/RWMB-4.7CT-ND/1587939?utm_adgroup=Resistors&gclid=CjwKCAiAhfzSBRBTEiwAN-ysWEwePIQ6Rl2PioHblQy56f0W38XUWEMqlF8XKOAmPfNA1bfxALw10BoCBPwQAvD_BwE>
>>> - might not help if it's the wrong resistance tho.
>>> 
>>>> On Wed, Jan 17, 2018 at 3:48 PM, Jake <jake at spaz.org> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Patrik if we don't glue it in, it won't make thermal contact with the
>>>> aluminum
>>>> block and will burn out.  Thermal paste gets squeezed out when the
>>>> resistor
>>>> heats up and expands and then you end up with a gap and the resistor
>>>> burns out.
>>>> 
>>>> We already went down the road with the Lulzbot resistor that is out of
>>>> stock,
>>>> permanently.  It's also the wrong resistance, and the software patch to
>>>> compensate for that fact doesn't work.  I carefully chose this resistor
>>>> value
>>>> (8 ohms) and the thermally conductive epoxy that I want to use to glue it
>>>> in.
>>>> 
>>>> if you want to take over this project go ahead, but sowing doubt and
>>>> uncertainty will just leave us with no 3D printer for another three years.
>>>> 
>>>> -jake
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On Wed, 17 Jan 2018, Patrik D'haeseleer wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> On Wed, Jan 17, 2018 at 4:04 AM, Jake <jake at spaz.org> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>>> If someone gets the resistor shaved to fit in there, i'll bring in the
>>>>>> special two-part thermal bonding epoxy and glue it in, and then i'll
>>>>>> hook up
>>>>>> the wires and we'll have a 3D printer again.
>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Don't glue it in place with epoxy, or you'll have to drill it out when it
>>>>> burns out again. It should be a tight enough fit to hold in place by
>>>>> itself,
>>>>> no? I would expect regular thermal paste to conducts heat better than the
>>>>> epoxy anyway...
>>>>> 
>>>>> Patrik
>>>>> 
>>>>> PS: the replacement resistor that Lulzbot sells is only $3.50, and I
>>>>> would
>>>>> expect that one to fit the hole like a glove. They seem to be out of
>>>>> stock
>>>>> right now though...
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>>