Oh I see.. but it'd have to be longer than 1'
Square metal tubing does sound more robust, if more of a pain to attach the
wire & hinge too
On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 11:52 PM Patrik D'haeseleer <patrikd(a)gmail.com>
On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 10:20 PM, David Keenan
Robb - you mean 1/4" thick? Just to support the 2x2 pushing stick, or the
whole motor somehow? That's pretty thick
Or perhaps he meant 1-1/4" angle iron, instead of a 2x2" wooden push
If so, I think square tubing would be even better: compact, affordable,
and more resistant to buckling or twisting than an angle iron.
On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 10:17 PM, robb <sf99er(a)gmail.com> wrote:
we're gonna need something like 1'4" thick angle iron about 12" long
On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 9:58 PM, David Keenan <dkeenan44(a)gmail.com> wrote:
Oops I just saw you said there were threaded holes in the chassis. That's
great. This might be easier than I thought -
On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 9:51 PM David Keenan <dkeenan44(a)gmail.com> wrote:
Yaa. This all sounds super rad. I imagine we can build the shelf /mounting
plate without much ado as long as we get the depth right. If we use
stainless threaded rod actually we could just make an adjustable height
ceiling-suspended shelf using nuts, with perhaps adjustable l-brackets at
the transom header to provide some lateral / shear support.. We also might
want to add some sort of support or L-bracket for the 2x2 to slide along
and be supported at the non-door end. It won't be a work of art, but on
paper at least it should work.
I'll check in with niki and see if I can come on a Tuesday. I'll go take
measurements of the motor and see about creating this. Are there any
mounting holes by any chance on the motor chassis (I imagine not?)
On Thu, Jan 19, 2017 at 7:04 PM Jake <jake(a)spaz.org> wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017, David Keenan wrote:
- door arm (2x2 stick) and mechanism cannot
extend lower than 2" below
of door. That's possible right?
yes my design includes not protruding more than 2" below the top of the
- opening force of the motor cannot be too
strong. I assume the rpm can
RPM is the speed, what you mean is the force, and yes it can be adjusted in
software! we can dial it to exactly 5 pounds or whatever you want.
Also, we can entirely remove the automatic closing device that we have
now, and use the motor for that purpose as well, although we might decide
just keep both there.
- per code if the door is blocked or hits
someone/something, it needs to
yield. What happens when the motor is stopped by
something else, when the
motor is engaged? Would that damage the motor?
the motor will not be damaged, if someone blocks the door it will just
right through their soft flesh and bones without stopping. This is what
i guess if you prefer, we can tell it that if the force is more than the
number of pounds, it just yields and waits, or perhaps times out and gives
after a certain number of seconds. It's not a problem.
- Not related to the mechanics, but even if the
motor is not heavy, the
shelf upon which the motor sits will have to look
and be very sturdy,
strong enough for someone to hang off of. Given
the large transom, it
probably have to be a wide shelf, or perhaps
stainless rods connecting to
ceiling joists or something.
you're right about this, the motor is a bit heavy, maybe 25 pounds? it's
milk crate next to the robot right now, and it will be used with the black
wheel (no tire) that is in the same milk crate.
I think that vertical supports into the ceiling joists would be
but that's not my department. Anyway there are a few bolts I found that
the threads cast into the motor, and they're duct-taped to its brake
Again for the mechanism, I would refer to
that's a lot of stuff to read. I think we'll be fine. I even have a
we can use for the backup power.
Perhaps we can set up a time for me/others to
come look at the equipment
figure out how to safely and securely mount it.
i'm busy this weekend but i'm at omni every tuesday at 7pm for Hardware
Tuesdays and I can come in on mondays or thursdays, hit me up.
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