I found a resistor to use for the heater on our TAZ 3D printer
the catch is it has to be shaved down a little bit, using an exacto knife to
remove the insulative coating on the outside of the resistor.
This is OK because we want to conduct heat more effectively into the aluminum
block where the nozzle is.
anyway I started shaving off the coating so it would fit into the block but
it's time to go home. It's presently shoved halfway into the nozzle block on
the printer and the knife is on the print bed, and you can pick up where i left
off and get the resistor to fit in the hole.
don't shave too aggressively, we want to keep some of the insulation over the
metal resistor coils if possible, and definitely don't cut through the metal.
Just keep doing what i did for the first half.
If someone gets the resistor shaved to fit in there, i'll bring in the special
two-part thermal bonding epoxy and glue it in, and then i'll hook up the wires
and we'll have a 3D printer again.
It's an 8 ohm black resistor, rated for probably 5 watts (but that doesn't
matter as much as the size and resistance) and I do have more if we fuck this
one up.
-jake
On Tue, Dec 5, 2017 at 10:37 PM, Jake <jake(a)spaz.org> wrote:
our black TAZ "3" 3D printer doesn't
work partially because its hotend
resistor is burned out. Its hotend is a "Budaschnozzle 2.0" Here's a link
to
the nozzle:
https://www.lulzbot.com/support/budaschnozzle-20
this is the parts list:
http://download.lulzbot.com/Budaschnozzle/v2.0/Budaschnozzle_2.0_0.35noz_re…
the part we need is:
[ PC-RE0007 ] Heat Resistor, 4.7 Ohm
this seems to be the sale page for replacement resistors:
https://www.lulzbot.com/store/parts/heat-resistor
but we can probably find one lying around, and i have thermally
conductive epoxy for gluing it in.
-jake
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