Just looked at the instructions - are we
overthinking how to illuminate
a piece of paper? Could easily use an aluminum channel with white LED
strip to do same task. Happy to bring these materials next tues.
On 2018-01-18 22:37, jacques revera wrote:
probably less than a square foot or half of that. depends on how we
remake the piece holding the light to raise it higher
On Thu, Jan 18, 2018 at 10:23 PM, Jake <jake(a)spaz.org> wrote:
i have plenty of FR4 that does have copper on it,
we could still use it
for
this. how much do we need?
On Thu, 18 Jan 2018, Marc Juul wrote:
Nice! I'm not sure we have any non-circuitboard FR4. If it's not too
> big we
> could just order it from e.g. seeedfusion as a circuitboard design
> with no
> exposed copper pads.
>
> On Thu, Jan 18, 2018 at 1:54 PM, jacques revera <
> jacquesrevera(a)gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> I just purchased two refurbished 20 megapixel Canon PowerShot ELPH 160
>> and
>> the archivist lighting assembly which includes LED bulbs, sockets,
>> lenses,
>> wiring and power adapter.
>>
>> Jonathon will send us the design files for the sockets mounting plate
>> soon
>> as I tell him what format we need to cut it at the SUDO room: DXF or
>> SVG or
>> something else?
>>
>> ~
>>
>>
http://diybookscanner.org/archivist/index6ea9.html?page_id=267
>> This is the page describing the plate. It would be convenient if the
>> SUDO
>> room has some FR4 but as long as the material is opaque, heat proof
>> and can
>> be painted black, should be no problem.
>>
>> This plate will sit at the top center of the scanner. The plate also
>> serves to block light from entering from the top direction. Since, we
>> need
>> to attach something to raise the lights higher than the original
>> hackerspace design, we should not cut this out yet. It does not need
>> to be
>> the same shape as the archivist plate as long as the socket mounting
>> holes
>> are the same.
>>
>> Jonathon wrote last week:
>> ."..you can move the lights further away from the platen. Because of
>> various design constraints, Daniel put the lights closer to the
>> platen than
>> is ideal on that model. For later models (like Daniel's Archivist
>> design),
>> the lights were been moved further away to reduce glare and hot
>> spots. You
>> want to reproduce this in some way. So just build a simple frame you
>> can
>> set on top of the scanner to lift the lights. There is a mathematical
>> way
>> to find the minimum distance, but it might be easiest just to do it
>> empirically, pulling the lights away and taking sample photos until
>> you see
>> that there is no reflected light source."
>>
>> You can see how this the lights are put together on the archivist
>> about
>> halfway down this page
>>
http://diybookscanner.org/archivist/index9bef.html?page_id=54
>>
>> Jacques
>>
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>>
>>
>>
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