Happy holidays from your friendly neighborhood hackerspace! If you are
wondering what material gifts Sudo needs right now, please consider:
* TALL LADDER - a member of our community graciously stored her ladder
here for a year and let us use it, but she's taken it back and now we
cannot reach many high places in our space.
* RICE COOKER - we had a couple of them but they were left on all
night and broken. Please help us feed ourselves - this thing pays for
itself!
* EXTENSION CORDS - we …
[View More]spend a lot of time futzing around and swapping
the same extension cords between the same 4-5 areas. It would be so
much more efficient if we had a few more long ones. It would also be
safer, since some of the cords floating around here don't have a third
grounding prong.
I'm sure there's other things! Please reply with more!
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I replaced the rotary took shaft, but for some reason tube quick release bit holder keeps falling out of the mill? Can't figure out why the magnetic attachment is performing so weakly. Any thoughts?
// Matt
----- Reply message -----
From: "Jack Kern" <jack.w.kern(a)gmail.com>
To: "Matthew Senate" <mattsenate(a)gmail.com>
Cc: "hol(a)gaskill.com" <hol(a)gaskill.com>, "Yardena Cohen" <yardenack(a)gmail.com>, "sudo-discuss" <sudo-discuss(a)lists.sudoroom.org>
Subject:…
[View More] [sudo-discuss] cnc mill
Date: Mon, Dec 23, 2013 08:49
Hi Jake,
Apologies I don't keep up with the list that frequently..
I'm out of town till the 5th but I can provide help via email for now just email me directly (off the list) so it goes right to my inbox.
Other than myself, Matt and Hol know the most about using the machine at this point.
My basic process:- First figure out how you're going to mount your stock material
- Load up cambam on the controller machine (unless you're writing gcode some other way) and set the stock properties to be the same size (in mm)- Set the top of stock surface to 0 with a stock offset as this makes aligning the machine coordinates easier
- Create or load the geometry you want to cut and create the toolpaths in cambam- Make sure to set cambam's gcode post-processor to "mach3"- Generate your toolpaths and export the gcode (nc files)
- Turn on the power to the CNC machine controller - the main power supply switch it is the hardest to reach and is on the back of the grey control box that the steppers are connected to. (Don't flip the little toggle switch on the same box though, I believe I have it taped to the on position because that disconnects the USB interface)
- Turn on power to the motors via the small black box on the side of the stand holding the controller computer.- Load up the CNC controller on the controller machine (Mach3) you shouldn't get any errors about not being able to talk to the machine, if you do you need to kill mach3 and check the USB connectivity including that toggle switch I mentioned previously.
- Finally with the machine on and Mach3 open, click the big flashing red safety button in the interface and then click REF ALL HOME to return the machine to its home position and reset it's machine coordinates
- To jog the machine the controls are the four arrow keys for the X/Y axis, and page up and page down for the Z axis. Always watch what you're doing and try not to clip any stock/mounts on the surface or you risk breaking the machine/bit etc
- Load the gcode for your part into mach3- Jog the machine to where <0,0,0> should be relative to your stock material (it should be the same origin as in cambam, I usually set this to the top, center of my part I'm cutting out, unless something else makes more sense for the work to be done)
- Once you align the origin for the part, zero out each axis in mach 3 and then click REGENERATE TOOLPATHS (if you don't do this the paths will exist in the coordinate system that was set up when you loaded the gcode) you need to do this any time you change the machines coordinates.
- If you need to change cutting bits you always need to re-zero the Z axis to the top surface, and then REGENERATE TOOLPATHS again.- Finally carefully jog around the boundaries of the part in mach 3 with plenty of height above the z axis to make sure you're not going to clip any mounting hardware while milling.
- Now you're ready to start milling.. I typically start at about 50-70% of the default feed rate. - Jog the CNC to roughly the origin again (slight higher than the part)- Put on some goggles if you want to get all up in there
- Start the spindle motor- Start the shop vac- Click run!- Hope everything doesn't explode
Good luck! I will try to set up some tutorial sessions in the new year.
Jack
On Fri, Dec 13, 2013 at 6:15 PM, Matthew Senate <mattsenate(a)gmail.com> wrote:
I have two replacement parts, I will bring them by tonight
On Fri, Dec 13, 2013 at 5:55 PM, Hol Gaskill <hol(a)gaskill.com> wrote:
the transmission cable that goes from the overhead motor to the spindle was disconnected last I looked - might have to track it down. good luck!
Dec 13, 2013 05:47:47 PM, yardenack(a)gmail.com wrote:
On Fri, Dec 13, 2013 at 5:35 PM, Jake jake(a)spaz.org> wrote:
>> anyone know how to use the CNC mill? I am thinking of going to sudo tonight
>> to mill something and it would be easier if someone can show me how to do
>> it, rather than figuring it out.
>> or is there a wiki page for the thing?
>
>I know I replied on IRC, but for the benefit of future
>readers/archivers/crawlers:
>
>https://sudoroom.org/wiki/CNC
>https://sudoroom.org/wiki/O:55
>https://imgur.com/a/461VK
>_______________________________________________
>sudo-discuss mailing list
>sudo-discuss(a)lists.sudoroom.org
>http://lists.sudoroom.org/listinfo/sudo-discuss
>
_______________________________________________
sudo-discuss mailing list
sudo-discuss(a)lists.sudoroom.org
http://lists.sudoroom.org/listinfo/sudo-discuss
_______________________________________________
sudo-discuss mailing list
sudo-discuss(a)lists.sudoroom.org
http://lists.sudoroom.org/listinfo/sudo-discuss
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Who does one contact about putting on events at SudoRoom? Alan
Rockefellar and I are interested in doing a mushroom ID and microscopy
workshop (which we've done in the past at Noisebridge) at SudoRoom at
some point after Xmas. Anywhere from the last week of December to the
second week of January.
Peter
Anyone want to participate in a read aloud of One Hundred Years of
Solitude?
Readers would alternate chapters over a couple days, although just
listeners are welcome.
The book is amazing! My schedule is open Tue and Wed.
Rock
On Fri, Dec 13, 2013 at 5:35 PM, Jake <jake(a)spaz.org> wrote:
> anyone know how to use the CNC mill? I am thinking of going to sudo tonight
> to mill something and it would be easier if someone can show me how to do
> it, rather than figuring it out.
> or is there a wiki page for the thing?
I know I replied on IRC, but for the benefit of future
readers/archivers/crawlers:
https://sudoroom.org/wiki/CNChttps://sudoroom.org/wiki/O:55https://imgur.com/a/461VK
Hey Jake,
No FTDI chip onboard for this one, just shown on the attachment to help lay out the connections which are 6-pin TTL serial. I'd like to keep everything through-hole for the first sudouino so it can work as a kit for newbies, and since I personally don't even know how to SMD solder, all the work done on it so far assumes no SMD components. I remember encouraging you a few weeks ago to take the lead for the sudouino 2 board around the ATMega32U4 as you've suggested using this chip …
[View More]previously. I think there are many cool things that can be done with it, so I look forward to seeing what you come up with to accompany that chip. In the meantime I'll continue work with the 328p as planned in order to bring this board online as soon as possible.
As far as connectors, I probably won't use any myself and I think we should sell some boards without them. I do agree with Steve on having an option for screw terminals for the switched loads, and either a screw terminal or a barrel jack for DC power input to the board. Whatever we think would be the most popular, I'll space the holes accordingly so the PCB design will accommodate either way. So it looks like we're up to 8+ different packages based on 3 different choices - 3,3V / 5V, kit / pre-assembled, bare holes / terminals.
What kind of connectors would the most people use for power in and out?
Cheers,
Hol
Dec 22, 2013 12:47:17 PM, jake(a)spaz.org wrote:
Hi Hol,
>
>I have lots of opinions and advice about this design, but i would like
>more info about the state of the project first. For example i am curious
>whether this thing will have a USB port or use the 6-pin serial header
>like a Boarduino.
>
>I have a bunch of Atmega32U4 chips that you can use for this project.
>True that they are surfacemount but it's not harder to do than
>through-hole, in fact it can be much easier even for newbies. I have
>syringes of solder paste, although it can be done with regular solder
>easily.
>
>here's a video of someone doing it with hot air (note: they fool around
>with the narrow stream of hot air, but you can just do it in a blast with
>a regular hotair gun in much less time)
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=2Z7nCAxS2Rg#t=548
>
>the nice thing about the atmega32U4 chips (besides the fact that I will
>donate them to the project for free) is that they have native USB, which
>means your boards can plug straight into a computer like an arduino
>leonardo. Also they will be able to pretend to be other devices, like a
>keyboard, mouse, printer, disk, or whatever you want.
>
>specifically about the SAE connectors, I am against them. I think the
>board should just have 1/8" holes for wires to be soldered into.
>
>-jake
>
>Hol wrote:
>Almost done w/ PCB design. That's an ATMega328p processor and a ULN2003
>for power output up to 3.5 amps out of the box. Still need to add some
>connectors for I2C and 12V, 5V. I usually use SAE connectors
>http://www.vetco.net/catalog/images/G-QD-10-2.jpg for my 12V loads but we
>could solder on a barrel jack, or just ship it with holes for DIY
>soldering of connectors. Suggestions?
>
>
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Hi Folks,
Almost done w/ PCB design. That's an ATMega328p processor and a ULN2003 for power output up to 3.5 amps out of the box. Still need to add some connectors for I2C and 12V, 5V. I usually use SAE connectors http://www.vetco.net/catalog/images/G-QD-10-2.jpg for my 12V loads but we could solder on a barrel jack, or just ship it with holes for DIY soldering of connectors. Suggestions?
Cheers,
Hol
last night I replaced the hotend on the sudoroom type-a-machine 3d
printer.
after that i spent a bit of time attempting to print and kept running into
problems, which i'll list.
it seems that some of the PLA we have that came from type A machines is
clearly labeled to be printed at 190-220 degrees! I have always used 185,
but i guess this is a new formula. When i set it to 205 it still seemed
too cold, so i ended up using 220.
You should set the temperature in the slic3r before you …
[View More]export your gcode.
There are other ways to do it, but if you know them you don't need me to
tell you.
the other issue is that our spools of filament are dusty! it's gross.
And all that dust goes into the extruder and jams it up. The nozzle is
only 0.35mm diameter! so clean the filament spool first (DO NOT GET PLA
WET) and keep a dust-catcher on the filament before it goes into the
machine. I put one on there last night.
something like this would be fine, if we had the right foam, but for now i
just cut some acrylic fabric and wrapped it around the filament with some
copper wire to hold it on there. It should work but check it once in a
while, or when changing spools.
someone had put tape over the old tape on the platform in a very chaotic
and haphazard way. Also there were a few melted spots on the platform
where a hot extruder had been rammed into the platform and created a
little vulcano.
I carved the raised spots off the platform with a flat-edged blade,
leveling them off, and then i re-arranged the tape properly so there is NO
OVERLAPPING OF TAPE and only one layer of tape. It is necessary to
maintain the platform any time you're trying to print if it is not already
good to go.
I didn't re-level the platform so if someone else wants to do that go
ahead. It seemed a bit higher on the left than on the right. I like to
get a perfectly cylindrical object and adjust the z-height so it just
barely rolls under the extruder tip, and then try in four corners of the
platform to compare the height.
now join the sudo-prints mailing list!
http://lists.sudoroom.org/listinfo/sudo-prints
-jake
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